Girls Auto Clinic Glove Box Guide Page 11

  Headlights, Taillights, Turn Signals, and More

  The lights in our homes are generally connected to outlets or to wiring embedded in our walls. In our cars, most of the lights are plugged into the battery—and that means everything from headlights and interior dome lights to the lights on your dash. When the engine is on, the battery is being fed by the alternator, and life is good. There’s enough power to go around. When the engine is off, any working lights are feeding directly off the battery. And by now you know what that means. Check your lights to be sure they’re off before you park for the night.

  Like any lightbulbs, the bulbs in your car will eventually blow out. Depending on the car, changing a blown-out headlight or taillight bulb can be an easy DIY fix or a job for your mechanic. Do an Internet search for the bulb you need to change and the year, make, and model of your car, and you’ll probably find a video showing you exactly how to replace the light. If it looks doable, work that #shecanic mojo!

  Another tip: Keeping spare headlight and taillight bulbs in your glove box is a great idea. Cops will pull you over and ticket you for driving with a taillight out.

  Your Computer on Wheels

  Today’s cars are smarter, safer, and more efficient than ever. And self-driving cars with the potential to dramatically reduce the number of accidents on the road are said to be just around the corner. But the net result of all this innovation is that our cars have become more and more saturated with technology.

  Whether a highway full of driverless vehicles is just a few years away or a futurist’s far-off fantasy, the network of computers, controls, sensors, switches, and wires inside the average car today is already incomprehensible to the average person. So to keep things simple, we’re going to cover only the high-tech components most likely to fail from use over time.

  Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Module is basically just another word for computer, and this one covers more than one hundred parts and functions in the average car, managing sensors, switches, and other controls that monitor and measure all functions related to the powertrain. That includes air, fuel, lubrication, exhaust, and emissions, as well as the overall condition of the engine, transmission system, and accessories. The module communicates any issues it detects by illuminating the check-engine light and/or a more specific message on your dash. In older cars, functions are regulated by separate engine control, transmission control, and body control modules (the ECM, TCM, and BCM). In newer cars, the PCM controls it all.

  Steering Control Module. The steering control module manages the sensors, switches, and other controls that monitor and measure steering conditions—and sometimes makes vital adjustments that prevent a crash. When the module detects issues, it will illuminate the power steering symbol on your dash.

  Suspension Control Module. In cars with electronic suspension systems, the suspension control module manages sensors, switches, and other controls that monitor suspension conditions. This module provides a firm suspension for fast cornering and quick acceleration and braking, along with a soft ride for cruising. When the module detects issues, it will illuminate the suspension symbol on your dash.

  Brake Control Module. The brake control module manages sensors, switches, and other controls that monitor braking conditions—and sometimes makes adjustments that prevent a crash, helping you maintain control over your vehicle. When the module detects issues, it illuminates the brake, antilock braking system (ABS), or electronic stability control (ESC) dashboard lights.

  Climate Control Module. In cars with electronic interior temperature controls, the climate control module monitors temperature.

  Safety Module. The safety module monitors the function of seat belts and air bags, in some cases detecting factors such as whether a person is heavy enough to be sitting in the front passenger seat and turning off the air bag if the passenger does not meet weight requirements. When the module detects an issue, it will illuminate the air bag or seat-belt indicators on your dash.

  Onboard Diagnostics and the Dreaded Check-Engine Light

  Each of the networks we just learned about is constantly collecting information about the various processes going on in your car. When there’s an issue, the modules tell the driver about it through simple dashboard symbols or messages. If one of those signals is the check-engine light, you’ll take your car to your PCT so that he or she can communicate with your car’s powertrain control module on a whole other level.

  Using what’s called a diagnostic scan tool, your PCT will plug into a port called an OBD (onboard diagnostics) connector, which spits out trouble codes and live data about your car. These codes give your PCT hints about what could be causing the check-engine light to illuminate. Remember, the check-engine light illuminates when the powertrain control module detects a problem in any of the air, fuel, lubrication, exhaust, and emissions systems that could be causing you to burn fuel inefficiently.

  There are hundreds of trouble codes, so this is where things get tricky. Along with electrical issues in general, the diagnosis and repair of a problem triggering the check-engine light can be a particularly challenging corner of auto repair, and for this reason it is sometimes time-consuming and expensive. Best-case scenario, the issue is something as simple as the gas cap being loose. Worst case, you’re up for an expensive repair. But the costs may rise if you continue to drive without addressing the problem.

  As we discussed back in the dashboard chapter, static check-engine lights shouldn’t cause you to panic or pull over right away. Driving a car with a static check-engine light on isn’t unsafe, but it does mean that you are burning fuel inefficiently (you may actually notice that you are using more gas) or that you’re spewing extra pollution into the environment (which you won’t notice unless it’s really bad, in which case your exhaust will be black and smelly).

  If your check-engine light comes on, take your car to your PCT ASAP for a diagnosis. Can’t afford to fix the issue? Ask your mechanic how long you can put off the repair without compromising on safety or causing further damage to your car.

  WARNING: If your check-engine light is flashing, take your car in to your PCT immediately or call for a tow if you can’t get to a mechanic within five to ten minutes. Do not procrastinate. Continuing to drive with a flashing check-engine light could cause damage to the engine or other parts of the car.

  ELECTRICAL MAINTENANCE AND REPAIRS

  PART

  ISSUE

  FIX

  TIMING

  COST

  Battery

  All batteries will eventually use up the acid and metal they contain

  Replace

  Normally functioning batteries last four to seven years

  Less than $150 for battery and installation

  Battery Posts, Terminal, and Cables

  As batteries age, corrosion causes a greenish-white powder to build up on terminals and cables. Corrosion can cause a poor connection and eventually failure to start, and/or make it difficult for the alternator to charge the battery; terminals may need to be replaced

  A quality PCT will take care of this problem by cleaning off the corrosion and spraying the terminals with a corrosion protectant. The DIY fix? Brush off the powder with a toothbrush dipped in a baking soda and water solution. (Some people pour cola over the terminal to remove corrosion—and it actually works.) Take the opportunity to make sure that cables are tightened snugly onto the terminals and the battery is held down tightly to the frame

  As needed

  $15–$30 to have the battery cleaned

  Battery Hold-Down Parts

  Car batteries are tightly held down to the frame of the car by brackets that prevent internal damage from vibration and movement. These brackets and their hardware can rust, and the bolts can loosen over time

  Check or have your PCT check to make sure brackets are secure. Replace any worn parts or hardware

  Annually

  Less than $50 to replace

  Sensors and Switches

&n
bsp; Sensors and switches will fail from use over time or from excessive heat to the wires

  Replace

  These parts can go at any time

  Varies greatly; prices may range from $5 to $1,000 depending on the location of the part and how difficult it is to access

  Starter or Alternator

  The starter or alternator will sometimes fail without warning, most likely creating the need for a tow. Battery problems can also be a sign of an impending alternator failure

  Replace

  Both of these parts normally start to fail after 80,000 miles

  The parts themselves are expensive (about $350), but the labor is normally simple and quick. Tip: You can save money by buying a refurbished alternator and starter, but make sure they come with a warranty

  Electronic Components, Controls, and Computer Modules

  Failure of computers and/or electronic accessories (radios, GPS system, power windows, and more) can be due to wiring issues causing surges, inherent problems, or wear over time

  Varies from repairing wiring to replacing the affected part

  These parts can go at any time

  Can require a lot of detective work, depending on the issue, on top of the part and labor; costs may be high, especially on luxury cars

  Electrical Wiring and Connectors

  Wires fail from electrical surges, excessive heat, corrosion, and wear

  Varies, depending on wiring and parts involved

  These parts can go at any time

  Can require a lot of detective work to chase down the wires and connectors affected; costs may be high, especially on luxury cars

  Your Wheels, Your $$$: The Bells and Whistles

  Computers, modules, radios, GPS systems, digital heating and AC controls, power windows . . . The more electronic accessories on a car, the more likely you are to have to pay for a repair when one of them fails. What needs to be replaced? Computers and modules tend to be reliable, but electronic parts (particularly sensors) can fail. The most common causes of failure in electronic components are use over time and poor wire connections. The latter can lead to zapping (aka shorting or killing) of the component due to an excessive electrical surge. So beware of splurging for those bells and whistles when buying a car—you may end up having to pay for them twice.

  The Tricky Business of Diagnosing Electrical Wire Failure

  Whenever a vehicular component that requires electricity fails, most car owners assume that the problem lies with the component. If the heater fails, it must be the blower motor, right? But sometimes the wiring that connects the blower motor to the electrical source, the alternator, is the point of failure. This is where things can get tricky. A blown fuse, a misbehaving switch, and a part malfunction are all issues that could be linked to a wire failure.

  To diagnose the issue, your PCT will need to track down the bad wires and replace or repair them. No small task, given that there is more than one mile of wire inside a modern car. We could spend all week trying to find the problem, especially on a luxury car, so be patient. The right PCT will eventually get there.

  One last thing: Adding aftermarket electronic systems or parts such as remote start functions, car radios, and TVs can wreak havoc on wiring; a trusted third party (not the auto manufacturer) will need to tie in to the car’s electronic system to add these features.

  Electric Cars

  Though electric cars make up less than 1 percent of the cars on the road today, they’ve been around since the 1830s. But with the current enthusiasm for energy independence, the electric movement is gaining momentum. Here’s a look at some of the pros and cons.

  On the plus side, electric cars:

  + Do not emit pollutants. Their engines are powered not by gasoline but by several batteries.

  + Do not make as much noise as gas-powered cars. This sounds appealing but can also be dangerous, since people (especially children) don’t hear them coming down the road.

  + Help reduce our dependence on foreign oil.

  + Generate tax incentives for drivers.

  + Require less maintenance and repair. Electric engines fail less often than gas engines because all they require is electric current traveling through wires; they don’t need fuel, coolant, oil, spark plugs, gaskets, seals, and all the other parts involved in getting a gas engine to work.

  On the downside:

  - Repairs will be expensive. You’ll need to find a reputable dealer qualified to work on electric cars—most independent shops and chains handle only standard vehicles.

  - Many cars can get around 80 percent charged in half an hour using public rapid chargers, but recharging a battery using a regular charger can take six to eight hours.

  - You’ll have to plan your routes carefully when driving long distances in order to ensure access to places where you can charge up again.

  - Electric cars are more expensive at purchase than gas-powered cars.

  The Hybrid Road

  Here’s my bid on hybrids, the split-personality wonders outfitted with both a small gasoline engine and an electric engine. Large batteries supply power to an electrical engine, and a small gas engine acts as backup, kicking in and helping out when the car needs more power than the battery can supply.

  Though they haven’t quite taken over like the industry predicted they would, there are a good number of hybrid cars on the road today.

  While hybrids are more expensive at purchase, they don’t require any maintenance beyond what a regular gas-powered car needs. The routine maintenance and minor repairs are not more expensive on a hybrid, and they may actually be cheaper. However, if something goes wrong with the car’s hybrid system after its warranty has expired, you could be charging up that credit card. Hybrid repairs are expensive and require specialized PCTs, not least because the batteries in hybrids are extremely powerful and capable of delivering fatal electric shocks. (The high-voltage wires on a hybrid have orange covers to alert any person working on the car of the danger.)

  Since hybrids cost more to buy and more to repair than standard cars of similar size, does the higher gas mileage really save money in the long haul? The answer depends on factors such as the price of gas, how much you drive, and how long you keep the car. One thing you’ll know for sure is that if you decide to buy a hybrid, you can feel good about helping the environment.

  Signs of a Battery, Starter, or Alternator Issue

  PROBLEM: Battery keeps draining and needs a jump every time you turn the car on.

  CAUSE: Weak battery in need of replacement, or alternator in need of replacement.

  PROBLEM: Car shuts down and loses all electrical power while driving. Sometimes all the dashboard lights illuminate before the car shuts off.

  CAUSE: Alternator in need of replacement.

  PROBLEM: Battery dashboard light is illuminated.

  CAUSE: A red light means the battery isn’t being charged. Check the alternator and the serpentine belt.

  PROBLEM: Headlights or interior lights are dim.

  CAUSE: Poor connections at battery posts and cable, or weak battery in need of replacement.

  PROBLEM: Car won’t start, with audible clicking or sputtering when you turn the key in the ignition.

  CAUSE: Poor connections at battery posts and cable, or weak battery in need of a jump or replacement.

  PROBLEM: Engine is slow to crank. You may have to hold the key in the start position for longer than usual to start the car and the chug-chug-chug (the sound of the starter motor turning the crankshaft) will be slow.

  CAUSE: Poor connections at battery posts and cable, weak battery in need of a jump or replacement, or starter motor in need of replacement.

  PROBLEM: Car won’t start, makes no noise or clicking sound, but all lights turn on.

  CAUSE: Poor wire connections at starter, starter in need of replacement, or weak battery.

  PROBLEM: Battery will not jump-start or accept a charge.

  CAUSE: Poor connections at battery posts and cable, or d
ead battery in need of replacement.

  PROBLEM: Car won’t turn over. You hear the chug-chug-chug of the starter motor turning the crankshaft, but then nothing happens. This means all electrical systems are working to get the engine started.

  CAUSE: A fuel or air or spark delivery issue is preventing the engine from getting enough fuel, air, or spark to run.

  Transmission: An Orderly Transfer of Power

  Your car’s battery gets things going by providing the electricity that starts the engine. The engine shows up with its powerful mini-explosions, turning on the alternator and feeding electricity to the rest of the car. Now it’s time for the wheels to spin. That’s when the transmission joins the party.

  Like the engine, the transmission is a large, complex machine that is expensive to repair. Unlike the engine, the transmission is a low-maintenance system. Some good news, right?

  If you’ve ever ridden a bike, you’re already familiar with how your car’s transmission works. A set of gears that transfers the power of the engine’s mini-explosions to the wheels, the transmission (in both manual and automatic cars) operates just like the gears on your childhood bicycle. On a bike, the gears are visible—toothed wheels connected along a bike chain. They transfer the power produced by your feet on the pedals to the bike’s wheels. The faster and harder you pedal, the faster the gears’ rotations, and the faster the wheels on that bike spin. You switch gears to make it easier to accelerate the bike and to go up hills, moving the chain to a smaller- or larger-toothed gear depending on how you want the bike to ride.